Feeder Nutrition Guide
CRICKET ( Acheta Domestica)
The Nutritional Value of the cricket depends greatly on the gut loads used.
In general they are 69% Moisture (water), 21 % protein (Meat), 6% fat, 3% Carbohydrates.
Crickets have 21mg of calcium/100g. The value can be greatly improved by providing your crickets with High quality diet and by gut loading your crickets prior to them being fed to your reptiles.Check out my Gut loading section of this page.
DISCOID ROACH
61 % Moisture (water), 36% Protein (meat), 7% Fat, 2% Ash.
The Discoid Roach is fairly nutritious and can be used as a staple for most types of insect eating lizards and reptiles. Proper gut loading is nessasary. Make sure you check your local laws on keeping roaches because I know we personally live in Ontario Canada and here we are not allowed to keep them.
FLIGHTLESS FRUIT FLIES
Flightless fruit flies ( Drosopophila Melanogasto)
.10% Calcium, 1% Phosphorus, 4.5% Total Minerals, 70% Protein, 12.6% Fat.
Which makes them a really good starter insect that we use with our baby chameleons. They make a great staple until our baby chameleons are big enough for 1/4 Pim head crickets. Which most pet shops have this size available for sale. Some pet stores can also order the flightless fruit fly cultures. They are best fed on rapashy Fruit fly diet. This makes good and easy gut loading and keepings your flies very healthy for chameleons, Beardies, and fat-tail geckos among numerous other reptiles. Chameleons need the small feeders like flies when they are first born. even pin head crickets will be too big for them.
HORNWORMS
Horn Worm (Manduca Sexta)
9% protein, 3% Fat, 45% Calcium, 85% Moisture
Horn worms make an exellent treat and really helps to rehydrate reptiles especially wild caught reptiles.
MADAGASCAR HISSING COCKROACH
Madagscar Hissing cockroach (Gomphadorhina portentosa)
53.9% Protein, 28.4% Fat, 3.3% Total Minerals, 0.2% Calcium
Cockroaches are illegal in some areas so make sure you check your laws. I know here in canada we are not allowed to keep them so make sure you check your laws you dont want to get you pet taken because of a feeder insect.
MEAL WORMS
Meal Worms (tenebrio Molitor)
59% Miosture, 10% Protein, 13 % Fat, 1% Ash
Meal Worms should only be fed as a treat. I had hurd of them causing problems if they are used as a staple but i have never had any problems, but I dont use them as a staple either though only as a treat I use crickets as a staple.
ORANGE SPOTTED ROACH
(Blaptica Dubia)
61% Moisture, 36% Protein, 7% Fat, 2% Ash
Again check your local laws. Where they are legal I have heard these make great staples.
WAX WORMS
61% Moisture, 16% Protein, 11% Fat, 1% Ash
Wax worms make great treats especially for the smaller lizards, baby beardies, baby chameleons, Adult Fat-tail geckos ect.
SILK WORMS
(Bombyx Mori)
76% Moisture, 64% Protein, 10% Fat, 7.5% Ash
Silk worms make great staples. They are pricy at most pet stores I know locally they are 75c a peice. but if you order them online they are cheaper especially if you order in bulk and unfreeze the eggs as needed.
SUPER WORMS
(Zophobas Mario)
59% Moisture, 20% Protein, 16% Fat, 1% Ash
I have hurd of people using superworms as a staple for adult bearded dragons. I have tried this with mine and I noticed I was getting alot more hunger strikes. When I swiched them back as a treat for my dragons more of them were eating them. and I didnt get any more hunger strikes where my dragons didnt want to eat. But they do make a great treat for bearded dragons and usually pretty cheap even at pet store price. bulk you can find them cheaper if you oder more than 1000.
By: Lindsay McLeod Captive Creations Canada
The Nutritional Value of the cricket depends greatly on the gut loads used.
In general they are 69% Moisture (water), 21 % protein (Meat), 6% fat, 3% Carbohydrates.
Crickets have 21mg of calcium/100g. The value can be greatly improved by providing your crickets with High quality diet and by gut loading your crickets prior to them being fed to your reptiles.Check out my Gut loading section of this page.
DISCOID ROACH
61 % Moisture (water), 36% Protein (meat), 7% Fat, 2% Ash.
The Discoid Roach is fairly nutritious and can be used as a staple for most types of insect eating lizards and reptiles. Proper gut loading is nessasary. Make sure you check your local laws on keeping roaches because I know we personally live in Ontario Canada and here we are not allowed to keep them.
FLIGHTLESS FRUIT FLIES
Flightless fruit flies ( Drosopophila Melanogasto)
.10% Calcium, 1% Phosphorus, 4.5% Total Minerals, 70% Protein, 12.6% Fat.
Which makes them a really good starter insect that we use with our baby chameleons. They make a great staple until our baby chameleons are big enough for 1/4 Pim head crickets. Which most pet shops have this size available for sale. Some pet stores can also order the flightless fruit fly cultures. They are best fed on rapashy Fruit fly diet. This makes good and easy gut loading and keepings your flies very healthy for chameleons, Beardies, and fat-tail geckos among numerous other reptiles. Chameleons need the small feeders like flies when they are first born. even pin head crickets will be too big for them.
HORNWORMS
Horn Worm (Manduca Sexta)
9% protein, 3% Fat, 45% Calcium, 85% Moisture
Horn worms make an exellent treat and really helps to rehydrate reptiles especially wild caught reptiles.
MADAGASCAR HISSING COCKROACH
Madagscar Hissing cockroach (Gomphadorhina portentosa)
53.9% Protein, 28.4% Fat, 3.3% Total Minerals, 0.2% Calcium
Cockroaches are illegal in some areas so make sure you check your laws. I know here in canada we are not allowed to keep them so make sure you check your laws you dont want to get you pet taken because of a feeder insect.
MEAL WORMS
Meal Worms (tenebrio Molitor)
59% Miosture, 10% Protein, 13 % Fat, 1% Ash
Meal Worms should only be fed as a treat. I had hurd of them causing problems if they are used as a staple but i have never had any problems, but I dont use them as a staple either though only as a treat I use crickets as a staple.
ORANGE SPOTTED ROACH
(Blaptica Dubia)
61% Moisture, 36% Protein, 7% Fat, 2% Ash
Again check your local laws. Where they are legal I have heard these make great staples.
WAX WORMS
61% Moisture, 16% Protein, 11% Fat, 1% Ash
Wax worms make great treats especially for the smaller lizards, baby beardies, baby chameleons, Adult Fat-tail geckos ect.
SILK WORMS
(Bombyx Mori)
76% Moisture, 64% Protein, 10% Fat, 7.5% Ash
Silk worms make great staples. They are pricy at most pet stores I know locally they are 75c a peice. but if you order them online they are cheaper especially if you order in bulk and unfreeze the eggs as needed.
SUPER WORMS
(Zophobas Mario)
59% Moisture, 20% Protein, 16% Fat, 1% Ash
I have hurd of people using superworms as a staple for adult bearded dragons. I have tried this with mine and I noticed I was getting alot more hunger strikes. When I swiched them back as a treat for my dragons more of them were eating them. and I didnt get any more hunger strikes where my dragons didnt want to eat. But they do make a great treat for bearded dragons and usually pretty cheap even at pet store price. bulk you can find them cheaper if you oder more than 1000.
By: Lindsay McLeod Captive Creations Canada
Veiled Chameleon Care Sheet
The veiled chameleon is one of the larger of the chameleon species. Veiled chameleons are typically found in the Mountain regions of Yemen. Like all chameleons Veileds are tree dwellers and prefer to spend their time basking in the sun or shade in a tree. Which means that in captivity we need to try and mimic that. as best as we can by providing plants vines and branches either real or fake. If you are using real plants they will need to be transplanted into new organic soil with no fertilizers. Making sure you completely wash out the soil and flushing the plant for a week or so. You can read more on that on this site in the safe plant list page.All chameleons have what is called Zygodactlyous feet which allows them to grip branches and makes them great climbers what also helps them climb is called prehensile tail that they use as a fifth appendage, Their eyes also move independently which allows them the advantage of being able to look at 2 things at the same time.
COLOR: The male veiled chameleons are green in color and depending on how it feels and its state. It will range from a bright olive green to a Deep green almost black. Their surrounding only partly contribute to its color change. They don't actually change their colors to match their surrounds like most people think.It changes based on many factors They also get stripes and spots of Yellow brown, Gold and blue. Babies and females are uniformed in light greens with white markings Gravid and breeding females will be dark green bodied and yellow and blue stripes and spots covering the body and face. Their brightness depends on their mood, health and temperature.
SEXING: Sexing veiled chameleons is relitively easy even froma young age. at birth the males are born with what is called a spur on the back heel of their feet.Which is a little bump that sticks out the heel of their foot. Females lack these spurs which makes sexing them from birth very simple. as adults the males have a larger and taller casques on the top of their head and females tend to have smaller casques and not as tall. Males tend to be much larger then females. It is not uncommon for a male to reach lengths of 24 inches where females will only reach 14-18 inches
LIGHTING: Like all diurnal reptiles (active during the day).Lighting is important in order to aid in digestion as well as metabolizing their food.Which also helps their health and growth.In order to properly provide for your chameleon you will need these lights.
UVB Light: which aids in the growth and health of their bones and provides the vitamin D3 To help prevent or stop MBD Metabolic Bone disease. Chameleons require a 5.0 UVB light which can be bought at your local pet shop or online.
UVA Light: this can be provided by a regular house light 45 watt or a 60 watt depending on the size of the tank. you need his basking spot to get the right level of heat depending on the size and age of your chameleon see the information below for temps.
Night Light or heat emitter: Pet shops and online stores sell night bulbs in red and blue and heat emitters which emit no light just heat. now these are only necessary if your house reaches below 60F at night time. Most people have their house temps set above this and usually these light are not needed. only in these cases would I use these lighting choices.
Lastly a good lighting schedule is necessary to ensure good health. we use on at 8 am and off at 8 pm This is a pretty standard schedule that most keepers use. you can accomplish this by using an automatic timer.
HOUSING:
With chameleons bigger is always better except when it comes to babies. you want your baby to be able to find his food without having to search too hard for it. I always suggest using a smaller cage and then upgrading to their "big boy/girl" cage.
16 x 16 x 30 inches is a great enclosure for a baby and juvenile veiled chameleon.
18 x 18 x 36 inches is the minimum for a female veiled. (remembering bigger is always better)
24 x 24 x 48 inches is minimum for an adult male or female veiled chameleon.
Remember these are just the minimum requirements for these guys and you always want to give them as much room as possible for them. Screen is always the better choice for an enclosure. there is also other choices for exo Terra but I don't recommend using a fish tank for a chameleon as these can create stagnant moist air and they can contact a respiratory infection in their lungs. So try to always use screen enclosures for them.
SUBSTRATE:
I find it is best not to use substrate as it is the leading cause for impaction in reptiles which is also in the top 3 for leading causes of deaths in reptiles. I recommend using paper towel or news paper which can be changed and replaced frequently. I also use repti carpet as its the safest choice to use.
ACCESSORIES: Remember when furnishing their enclosure you want to make them feel as safe as possible. you have to keep in mind that to your chameleon you look like a HUGE predator who can eat them. even though you might not be hungry for a chameleon he believes it. so provide them with as many hiding spots as possible. The more plants and vines and sticks and leaves that are the right size for his grip. (just slightly bigger then his hand) the more secure he will feel in his new home. making sure to provide some branches that he/she can sit on and bask. Check out our safe plant list for a list of safe plants for chameleons
TEMPERATURES:
Basking Temps:
Hatch-lings and Juveniles; 74-76F
Sub adult 78-82F
adult female 80-82F
adult male 85-90F
Ambient Temps:
Hatch-lings and Juveniles about 74F
Sub Adult about 78F
adult Female about 79F
Adult Male 84F
All ages at night need to have a temperature drop to between 65-70F if they get below 60F I would recommend using a heat emitter which emits no light to provide heat. be sure they are not getting too hot though. you might have to set it up higher off the cage to ensure they have a safe temperature drop at night time.
HYDRATION:
Chameleons do NOT recognize standing water. so they will not drink from a water dish. The best way to offer water to your chameleon is by either a mister or a dripper. These can be either automatic misters or manual. Both work great it just depends on how available you are to mist them. If you work most of the day or go to school you are going to want a misting system. But if you can mist their enclosure 3-4 times at least a day. allowing it to dry out completely in between then hand mister will be fine. At Captive Creations we use both a misting system. (Exo Terra Monsoon) and home made drippers. Our drippers are large plastic containers that are filled with water 2-3 times a day and after poking a hole in the bottom with a sewing needle they drip water onto the leaves for 3-4 minutes at a time. Home made drippers work great but you can also buy drippers from your local pet shop. Having both of these has worked very well for us. We find a lot of chameleons do not like to drink water in front of people so this offers them privacy to drink the water off the leaves either from the misting system or the dripper. We have never had a problem with dehydration using these methods.
** Please not that while water falls may look great and offer moving water. Your chameleon will see it as a place to poop that will move the poop away so they will be drawn to defecate in it and it will cause a lot of health problems. Since they need to be emptied and Clean DAILY I always recommend not using them.SO try to avoid buying them as they will be WAY more hassle then they are worth.**
FEEDING:
Chameleons are omnivores which means their main diet consists of insects.
Hatch-lings need to eat more than adults. (birth to 3 Months). Hatch-lings need to eat as much as they can eat in 5 minutes 2 times a day. Cup feeding is a great way to help reduce the risk of impaction. While you should still offer free ranged (loose in the enclosure) in order to stop any tongue problems that can start from not hunting and being able to stretch their tongue out. as well as keeping them healthy by making them hunt and climb around the tank and use all the muscles in their body. So both ways are okay as long as you don't do too much cup feeding. It can be fun to watch them cup feed or eat from tongs or your hand. Once they are 3 months old I will cut back the feeding to 1 times a day. and as much as they can eat in 5 minutes.Once your chameleon is full grown or a year for a breeding female. you can reduce the feeding to 5-10 crickets. every other day.( Less for females) You can use any staple you want in the same amount.
SUPPLEMENTS:
Hatch-lings up to 6 Months: Plain calcium Everyday, Multivitamin 2 x month, Calcium with D3 2x Month.
Sub Adult 6-12 Months: Plain Calcium 4 X Week, Multi Vitamin 2 x Month, Calcium With D3 2 X month.
Adult 12 Months +: Plain Calcium 3-4 X Week, Multivitamin 2X Month, Calcium With D3 2X Month.
Gut Loading your crickets is very important. Here is a list of some gut loads you can use with your feeder insects:
Wet Gut Loads: Kale, Collard Greens Red and Romaine Lettuce, Carrots, Yams, Winter Squash, Oranges, Apples, Raspberries, Strawberries, Blueberries, Watermelons, dandelion Leaves, and Hibiscus Leaves and Flowers.
Dry Gut Loads:Bee Pollen, Alfalfa Powder, Kelp Powder, Brewers yeast and Wheat Germ, Raw uncooked sun flower Seeds, Small amounts of whole gain cereal.
COLOR: The male veiled chameleons are green in color and depending on how it feels and its state. It will range from a bright olive green to a Deep green almost black. Their surrounding only partly contribute to its color change. They don't actually change their colors to match their surrounds like most people think.It changes based on many factors They also get stripes and spots of Yellow brown, Gold and blue. Babies and females are uniformed in light greens with white markings Gravid and breeding females will be dark green bodied and yellow and blue stripes and spots covering the body and face. Their brightness depends on their mood, health and temperature.
SEXING: Sexing veiled chameleons is relitively easy even froma young age. at birth the males are born with what is called a spur on the back heel of their feet.Which is a little bump that sticks out the heel of their foot. Females lack these spurs which makes sexing them from birth very simple. as adults the males have a larger and taller casques on the top of their head and females tend to have smaller casques and not as tall. Males tend to be much larger then females. It is not uncommon for a male to reach lengths of 24 inches where females will only reach 14-18 inches
LIGHTING: Like all diurnal reptiles (active during the day).Lighting is important in order to aid in digestion as well as metabolizing their food.Which also helps their health and growth.In order to properly provide for your chameleon you will need these lights.
UVB Light: which aids in the growth and health of their bones and provides the vitamin D3 To help prevent or stop MBD Metabolic Bone disease. Chameleons require a 5.0 UVB light which can be bought at your local pet shop or online.
UVA Light: this can be provided by a regular house light 45 watt or a 60 watt depending on the size of the tank. you need his basking spot to get the right level of heat depending on the size and age of your chameleon see the information below for temps.
Night Light or heat emitter: Pet shops and online stores sell night bulbs in red and blue and heat emitters which emit no light just heat. now these are only necessary if your house reaches below 60F at night time. Most people have their house temps set above this and usually these light are not needed. only in these cases would I use these lighting choices.
Lastly a good lighting schedule is necessary to ensure good health. we use on at 8 am and off at 8 pm This is a pretty standard schedule that most keepers use. you can accomplish this by using an automatic timer.
HOUSING:
With chameleons bigger is always better except when it comes to babies. you want your baby to be able to find his food without having to search too hard for it. I always suggest using a smaller cage and then upgrading to their "big boy/girl" cage.
16 x 16 x 30 inches is a great enclosure for a baby and juvenile veiled chameleon.
18 x 18 x 36 inches is the minimum for a female veiled. (remembering bigger is always better)
24 x 24 x 48 inches is minimum for an adult male or female veiled chameleon.
Remember these are just the minimum requirements for these guys and you always want to give them as much room as possible for them. Screen is always the better choice for an enclosure. there is also other choices for exo Terra but I don't recommend using a fish tank for a chameleon as these can create stagnant moist air and they can contact a respiratory infection in their lungs. So try to always use screen enclosures for them.
SUBSTRATE:
I find it is best not to use substrate as it is the leading cause for impaction in reptiles which is also in the top 3 for leading causes of deaths in reptiles. I recommend using paper towel or news paper which can be changed and replaced frequently. I also use repti carpet as its the safest choice to use.
ACCESSORIES: Remember when furnishing their enclosure you want to make them feel as safe as possible. you have to keep in mind that to your chameleon you look like a HUGE predator who can eat them. even though you might not be hungry for a chameleon he believes it. so provide them with as many hiding spots as possible. The more plants and vines and sticks and leaves that are the right size for his grip. (just slightly bigger then his hand) the more secure he will feel in his new home. making sure to provide some branches that he/she can sit on and bask. Check out our safe plant list for a list of safe plants for chameleons
TEMPERATURES:
Basking Temps:
Hatch-lings and Juveniles; 74-76F
Sub adult 78-82F
adult female 80-82F
adult male 85-90F
Ambient Temps:
Hatch-lings and Juveniles about 74F
Sub Adult about 78F
adult Female about 79F
Adult Male 84F
All ages at night need to have a temperature drop to between 65-70F if they get below 60F I would recommend using a heat emitter which emits no light to provide heat. be sure they are not getting too hot though. you might have to set it up higher off the cage to ensure they have a safe temperature drop at night time.
HYDRATION:
Chameleons do NOT recognize standing water. so they will not drink from a water dish. The best way to offer water to your chameleon is by either a mister or a dripper. These can be either automatic misters or manual. Both work great it just depends on how available you are to mist them. If you work most of the day or go to school you are going to want a misting system. But if you can mist their enclosure 3-4 times at least a day. allowing it to dry out completely in between then hand mister will be fine. At Captive Creations we use both a misting system. (Exo Terra Monsoon) and home made drippers. Our drippers are large plastic containers that are filled with water 2-3 times a day and after poking a hole in the bottom with a sewing needle they drip water onto the leaves for 3-4 minutes at a time. Home made drippers work great but you can also buy drippers from your local pet shop. Having both of these has worked very well for us. We find a lot of chameleons do not like to drink water in front of people so this offers them privacy to drink the water off the leaves either from the misting system or the dripper. We have never had a problem with dehydration using these methods.
** Please not that while water falls may look great and offer moving water. Your chameleon will see it as a place to poop that will move the poop away so they will be drawn to defecate in it and it will cause a lot of health problems. Since they need to be emptied and Clean DAILY I always recommend not using them.SO try to avoid buying them as they will be WAY more hassle then they are worth.**
FEEDING:
Chameleons are omnivores which means their main diet consists of insects.
Hatch-lings need to eat more than adults. (birth to 3 Months). Hatch-lings need to eat as much as they can eat in 5 minutes 2 times a day. Cup feeding is a great way to help reduce the risk of impaction. While you should still offer free ranged (loose in the enclosure) in order to stop any tongue problems that can start from not hunting and being able to stretch their tongue out. as well as keeping them healthy by making them hunt and climb around the tank and use all the muscles in their body. So both ways are okay as long as you don't do too much cup feeding. It can be fun to watch them cup feed or eat from tongs or your hand. Once they are 3 months old I will cut back the feeding to 1 times a day. and as much as they can eat in 5 minutes.Once your chameleon is full grown or a year for a breeding female. you can reduce the feeding to 5-10 crickets. every other day.( Less for females) You can use any staple you want in the same amount.
SUPPLEMENTS:
Hatch-lings up to 6 Months: Plain calcium Everyday, Multivitamin 2 x month, Calcium with D3 2x Month.
Sub Adult 6-12 Months: Plain Calcium 4 X Week, Multi Vitamin 2 x Month, Calcium With D3 2 X month.
Adult 12 Months +: Plain Calcium 3-4 X Week, Multivitamin 2X Month, Calcium With D3 2X Month.
Gut Loading your crickets is very important. Here is a list of some gut loads you can use with your feeder insects:
Wet Gut Loads: Kale, Collard Greens Red and Romaine Lettuce, Carrots, Yams, Winter Squash, Oranges, Apples, Raspberries, Strawberries, Blueberries, Watermelons, dandelion Leaves, and Hibiscus Leaves and Flowers.
Dry Gut Loads:Bee Pollen, Alfalfa Powder, Kelp Powder, Brewers yeast and Wheat Germ, Raw uncooked sun flower Seeds, Small amounts of whole gain cereal.
Captive Creations Canada's Safe Plants List for Chameleons:
Here you will find a list of safe plants that you can put in your enclosure with your chameleon....
A African Daisy
Alyssum, Sweet
American Elm
Anthems aka Chamomile
Arbutus
Asparagus Fern
Aspen Tree
Aster
B Baby's Breath
Baby's Tears
Bachelor Bottons
Benjamina Ficus Ficus aka Weeping Fig
Birch Tree
Bird's Nest Fern
Bridal Veil Aka Tahitian Bridal Veil
C Camellia
Cast-Iron plant
Chinese Hibiscus aka Rose of China (Pic 1)
Corn Flower Aka Bachelor Buttons
Corn Plant
CottonWood
D Daisy, African
Daisy Livingston aka Ice Plant
Dandelion
Dracaena
E Easter Cactus
Elm
Emerald Rippled
F Ficus aka Weeping Fig
Fuchsia
G Garedenia
Geranium
Gold-Dust Dracaena
Golden Pothos
Grape Ivy
H Heavenly Bamboo
Hibiscus aka Chinese Hibiscus aka Rose of China
Honeysuckle Vine
I Ice plant aka Livingston Daisy
Indian Hawthorn
J Jade Plant
Japanese Aralia
Jasmine
K Kangaroo Vine aka Grape Ivy
Kentucky Coffee Tree
L Lavender
Lilac
Livingston daisy Ice plant
M Madenhair Fern
Moses in the cradle
Mulberry tree
N Norfolk Island Pine
P Printed Lady
Pampas Grass
Parlor Palm
Parsley
Passion Flower
Patient Plant
Petunia
Piggy Bank Plant
Pilea
Poplar
Prayer Plant
Purple Passion aka Purple Velvet
R Rubber Plant
Rose of China aka Chinese Hibiscus
Russian Olive
S Sensitive Plant
Spider Plant
Spit-leaf Philodendron
Spruce Tree
Squerrel's-Foot Fern
Star Jasmine
Sword Fern
T Tahitian Bridal Veil aka Bridal Veil
Ti Plant
Tree Mallow
U Umbrella Plant
V Velvet Plant aka Purple Passion
W Wandering Jew
Wax Begonia
Wax Plant aka Hoya
Weeping Fig aka Benjamina Ficus
Willow
Y Yucca
Z Zebra Plant
Zinnia
A African Daisy
Alyssum, Sweet
American Elm
Anthems aka Chamomile
Arbutus
Asparagus Fern
Aspen Tree
Aster
B Baby's Breath
Baby's Tears
Bachelor Bottons
Benjamina Ficus Ficus aka Weeping Fig
Birch Tree
Bird's Nest Fern
Bridal Veil Aka Tahitian Bridal Veil
C Camellia
Cast-Iron plant
Chinese Hibiscus aka Rose of China (Pic 1)
Corn Flower Aka Bachelor Buttons
Corn Plant
CottonWood
D Daisy, African
Daisy Livingston aka Ice Plant
Dandelion
Dracaena
E Easter Cactus
Elm
Emerald Rippled
F Ficus aka Weeping Fig
Fuchsia
G Garedenia
Geranium
Gold-Dust Dracaena
Golden Pothos
Grape Ivy
H Heavenly Bamboo
Hibiscus aka Chinese Hibiscus aka Rose of China
Honeysuckle Vine
I Ice plant aka Livingston Daisy
Indian Hawthorn
J Jade Plant
Japanese Aralia
Jasmine
K Kangaroo Vine aka Grape Ivy
Kentucky Coffee Tree
L Lavender
Lilac
Livingston daisy Ice plant
M Madenhair Fern
Moses in the cradle
Mulberry tree
N Norfolk Island Pine
P Printed Lady
Pampas Grass
Parlor Palm
Parsley
Passion Flower
Patient Plant
Petunia
Piggy Bank Plant
Pilea
Poplar
Prayer Plant
Purple Passion aka Purple Velvet
R Rubber Plant
Rose of China aka Chinese Hibiscus
Russian Olive
S Sensitive Plant
Spider Plant
Spit-leaf Philodendron
Spruce Tree
Squerrel's-Foot Fern
Star Jasmine
Sword Fern
T Tahitian Bridal Veil aka Bridal Veil
Ti Plant
Tree Mallow
U Umbrella Plant
V Velvet Plant aka Purple Passion
W Wandering Jew
Wax Begonia
Wax Plant aka Hoya
Weeping Fig aka Benjamina Ficus
Willow
Y Yucca
Z Zebra Plant
Zinnia